Bambu P1S Nozzle Change: Safe Hotend Replacement Guide
On the Bambu P1S, the supported nozzle change is a complete-hotend swap. Cool below 50 °C, power off, disconnect the cover and hotend cables, remove two screws, refit, update the nozzle setting and calibrate.
A Bambu P1S nozzle change is a complete-hotend replacement, not a generic threaded-nozzle swap. Bambu's current P1-series instructions say to unload the filament, cool the nozzle below 50 °C, power the printer off and disconnect it before opening the toolhead.
The P1S ships with a 0.4 mm stainless-steel nozzle. Bambu lists 0.2, 0.6 and 0.8 mm as optional diameters. If another guide tells you the stock nozzle is brass or instructs you to unscrew it hot with a wrench, do not follow that procedure on a standard P1S hotend.
When to change the hotend
A replacement can be appropriate when:
- you need a different nozzle diameter;
- you are moving to a compatible hardened-steel hotend for abrasive filament;
- the nozzle is damaged or worn; or
- a clog remains after the normal clearing procedure.
Do not replace a working hotend solely because another material is available. A hardened nozzle improves wear resistance with abrasive filament; it does not automatically improve ordinary PLA or PETG prints.
What you need
- A compatible complete P1-series hotend in the required material and diameter
- The H2.0 Allen key specified by Bambu
- The illustrated Bambu Lab P1-series replacement guide
If you are transferring the thermistor, ceramic heater, silicone sock and cooling fan to a bare hotend, follow the additional assembly instructions in Bambu's guide. A complete assembled hotend keeps that work contained.
Safe P1S hotend replacement
1. Unload, cool and isolate the printer
Unload the filament. Wait until the nozzle is below 50 °C, switch the printer off and disconnect it from power. Bambu warns that working on toolhead wiring with the printer powered can short and damage the electronics.
2. Remove the front cover
Lift the toolhead front cover, disconnect its fan connector and remove the cover. Handle connectors by their housings rather than pulling the wires.
3. Disconnect the hotend cables
Disconnect the hotend cooling-fan connector at the top, the thermistor connector and the ceramic-heater connector at the bottom. Release the cables from their clips so they are not trapped during removal.
4. Remove the complete hotend
Use the H2.0 Allen key to remove the two mounting screws, then take the hotend assembly out of the toolhead.
If residue prevents easy removal, stop and use the residue-removal note in Bambu's illustrated guide. Do not substitute a hot threaded-nozzle procedure.
5. Fit the replacement
Seat the replacement hotend fully, refit and tighten the two mounting screws, route the three hotend cables through their clips and reconnect them to the correct sockets.
Reconnect the front-cover fan and close the cover. Check that no wire is pinched and that every connector is fully seated before restoring power.
6. Update the nozzle setting and calibrate
If the material or diameter changed, update the nozzle information on the printer screen before printing. Power on the printer and run the device calibration process. Bambu's current guide says the calibration takes about 20 minutes and uses a successful pass to verify the replacement.
Choosing a diameter
0.2 mm favours fine detail and needs a matching slicer profile.
0.4 mm is the standard general-purpose diameter supplied with the P1S.
0.6 mm trades some fine detail for wider extrusion lines and is useful for larger functional parts.
0.8 mm is intended for large parts and high flow where fine detail is not the priority.
The printer and slicer must both match the fitted diameter. Do not print a 0.4 mm profile through a different nozzle size.
Sources checked
Sources checked 27 August 2026.